Concrete Cutting Cutter Dover MA Mass Massachusetts

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Dover Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling

The following directions for obtaining water-tight concrete are given by the Portland Cement Association:

1. All portions of the structure should be strong enough to resist the head of water, either internal or external, to which the concrete may be subjected.

2. Use clean, well graded aggregates.

3. Use a relatively rich mixture, such as a 1:23, or 1:13.

4. Use the minimum amount of mixing water that will give a workable, plastic consistency; not over 6 gallons per sack of cement.

5. Mix the concrete at least 1 minute after all materials are in the mixer.

6. Place the concrete carefully in layers 6 to 12 inches deep being sure to spade or rod it thoroughly to prevent the formation of stone pockets or voids.

7. If possible place the concrete in one continuous operation to avoid construction joints. If placing is interrupted, be sure to get a good bond between the fresh concrete and that placed previously.

8. Keep the concrete warm and damp for the first ten days.

However, waterproof concrete is more expensive to manufacture and place than ordinary commercial concrete and it is often cheaper to apply a waterproofing to ordinary concrete than to make better concrete. There are two main types or methods for waterproofing concrete: integral and applied. Integral waterproofing consists in introducing some substance into the mix to make the concrete denser with fewer voids for the percolation of water, or to incorporate some material which is water-repelling. For example, clay makes a lean concrete less permeable by reducing the voids but it does not add to strength. It is doubtful if any product will reduce the voids of a rich mix. There is doubt concerning the permanency of many of the water-repelling substances. Some of them reduce strength. In many cases additional cement is the best and cheapest integral waterproofing excepting perhaps hydrated lime which makes the mix "fatter," that is, lubricates it so that it is more readily compacted into a dense mass. The other type, applied waterproofing, is made up of pore fillers, plasters and membranes. The pore fillers are less used than formerly except for damp-proofing. Some of the floor hardeners and certain proprietary paints and compounds are undoubtedly effective for this purpose. The plaster type of waterproofing is somewhat of a cross between the integral and the applied types. A cement plaster made with an integral waterproofing agent is applied to the inside surface of walls and floors in thicknesses usually from I inch to 1 inch; forming a satisfactory finish for plastered walls or wearing surface for floors. It is largely and effectively used in basements and pits. All of the foregoing methods are ineffective however in preventing leakage through cracks. For the standpipe type of structure or any other which is liable to cracks there remains only the membrane waterproofing. This is built up of fabric and asphalt or tar in manner similar to roofing and is somewhat flexible. The membrane must be protected from abrasion by a heavy concrete or brick covering and so it is very difficult to repair. It is much more expensive than any other mode of waterproofing. While a plaster surface cracks with the concrete it is very easy to repair and the leaks are of course very easily found.