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Lincoln Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling

As a very slight heaving of a fence post by frost is not objectionable, they do not need to be placed in the ground more than 21/2 feet, although if for any reason they should be absolutely rigid the lower end should go below frost line, which in the Northern States is as much as 4 feet down. The length of the post is determined by the height which is desired above the ground. Posts may, be built separately, that is, in a separate form laid on the ground, but the cheapest way is to build forms for a number of posts so that several can be molded at the same time, and then the forms used for another set as soon as the concrete has hardened.

To mold a lot of posts at one time build the forms in the following manner: Select some place where the posts can be left in their original position for at least ten days. Level off the ground and place the bottom planks, which should be of 1/2-inch or 2-inch planed lumber, side by side upon 2 or 3 cross sills, making a solid floor upon which to mold the posts. Place two 1-inches by 5-inch boards on edge parallel to each other and the height of the posts apart and brace them on the outside with triangular braces as shown in the figure. To locate the center of first post stretch a line from one side across to the other at right angles to the boards on edge as indicated by line AA. At one end of this line AA measure 3 inches each side of it for the bottom of the post and at the other end measure 2 inches each side of this line for the top of the post. This will locate the boards BB for the sides of the posts. Nail these intermediate boards at the ends with a nail or two to the two parallel boards, allowing the heads to project so they can be pulled out with a claw hammer. Make the posts, as is shown in the sketch, with every alternate post lying the opposite way. By so doing one intermediate board serves as a side to two posts, thus requiring less lumber per post than by any other arrangement of forms. With this method of construction also the least amount of ground area is required for molding the posts and no bracing is necessary to support the boards for the sides of the posts. Triangular i-inch bevel strips may be placed on all edges, as shown in the cross section, Fig. ro, which will give the posts a neat and pleasing appearance. These bevel strips can be obtained readily from a mill, or they may be sawed from a i-inch board by ripping the board lengthwise. If desired the top of the post can be finished with a taper by simply inserting a triangular block, as shown. Never plaster the top of any post; instead, remove the end form when the concrete is green and smooth the surface with a trowel or float. If straight instead of tapering posts are preferred, the same kind of a form as has just been described can be used for molding them except that the intermediate boards B are placed at right angles to the two long parallel boards instead of at an angle to them, as shown, making them 5 inches apart. The forms are now ready to fill and the quantity of materials for certain size posts can be taken from the following table:

The posts should be made with one part granulated Portland cement, two parts clean, coarse sand and four parts broken stone or gravel, about 1 inch diameter particles. Grease or oil the form and fill the bottom of the form with concrete to a depth of 1 inch, upon which place immediately two pieces of V4-inch round or steel rods or No. 6 wire 1inch in from each side and running the full length of the post. Then quickly fill the form to within i inch of the top with concrete, tamping the wet concrete slightly to drive out any air bubbles. Next place two more rods or wires, each 1 inch from each side and fill in the rest of the concrete, spading the faces of the posts next to the form boards to leave a smooth surface, and lightly trowel the top surface. The end boards and the boards between the posts must not be removed until the concrete is hard and the posts should not be handled or moved for at least ten days without danger of cracking them.