Concrete Cutting Cutter Newbury MA Mass Massachusetts

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Newbury Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling

Line the outside concrete form with poultry netting, .folding it at the end or corners so as to make a reasonably close fit to the walls of the mold. Place the inside concrete form, which consists of a bottomless frame having dimensions 3 inches smaller each way than the outside one, so as to make the walls 1-1/2 inches thick. Set this 1 inside form on little blocks of wood to keep the form raised x% inches from the bottom of the outside form. These wood pieces can be removed when the concrete is hard, and will leave holes in the bottom of the box for draining off the excess water. Mix a batch of concrete- composed of one part granulated Portland cement to three parts clean, gravelly sand which has been screened through a 1/2-inch mesh screen, that is, a screen having openings 1/2 inch square. Lay the concrete, which should be of the consistency of mortar for laying brick. Remove the inner form very carefully in an hour or two, but leave the outside form at least until the next day. The outside surface generally need not be finished off further than wetting it down thoroughly and rubbing it with a wood float or brick, but if desired it may be finished off as described on page 27. The box must not be moved for at least a week, for fear of cracking it. Wet it occasionally during this time. Excavate a trench to a depth below frost and erect concrete forms for a 4-inch wall. Fill with concrete mixture one part granulated Portland cement, three parts clean, coarse sand and six parts broken stone or gravel, to level of the ground. On top of these build concrete forms for a 3-inch wall to height desired, and fill with concrete of the same proportions. Remove the concrete forms in two or three days and keep the walls damp for a couple of weeks. The great danger caused by the rotting of wooden windmill foundations is obviated by the use of concrete. Excavate four holes at the proper distance apart, 2� feet square and feet deep; build concrete forms for the sides and grease properly. Fill concrete forms 2 feet deep with concrete, one part granulated Portland Cement, three parts clean, coarse sand, six parts broken stone or gravel, of a jelly-like consistency, tamping well every six inches. To insure proper location of holding-down� bolts, construct template and hang the bolts from it, as shown, and fill in concrete around them until flush with top of form, and allow to set several days before using. This gives a substantial anchorage for a steel tower. In case a wooden tower is to be used, run projecting bolts up through the timber sills and use large cast-iron washers under the nuts. The anchorage in this case should project at least 6 inches above the ground. A concrete roller may be made as a hand roller to be operated by one or two men or as a horse roller, when it is, of course, larger and heavier. A hand roller for two men suitable for rolling lawns should be made about 18 inches in diameter and 24 inches long. This size of roller weighs about 530 pounds or 265 pounds per foot of length. The roller shown below is of the dimensions first given and has been used very satisfactorily for several years. A form for making a concrete roller is very easily and cheaply made, as shown in Fig. 40. For a roller four inches in diameter and 24 inches long cut a piece of sheet iron 24 inches by 56-1/2 inches. The edges must be cut even and must be square. Make two sets of wood clamps like the circular concrete forms shown on page 21. The piece of sheet iron cut to the dimensions as given can now be bent in a circle and nailed, if necessary, to the two wood clamps. Wire the iron form or jacket with No. 16 wire to hold the form from opening at the joint when the concrete is placed. Grease or oil the inside of the form thoroughly so that it will not stick to the concrete. To create an opening through the center of the roller place a 3/4 or 7-inch iron pipe in the center of the concrete form.