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Littleton Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling

They should be left for three or four weeks at least before using and kept damp by sprinkling. The surfaces of the posts do not need to be finished off in any special way, for they should be smooth enough without. For fastening fence wire to the posts, the following method is suggested: Take a piece of No. 12 copper wire 12 inches long, bend it in two and twist the halves together, leaving the ends free for about 2 inches; these should be made beforehand. While the concrete is being placed in the forms set two or three of these copper wires in the concrete the proper distance for stringing wires so that they will be imbedded in the post about 4 inches and leave the two free ends to project from the post about 2 inches. Another very good method is to get a number of V,-inch or i-inch round rods or wood dowels 6 or 8 inches long and place them vertically in the form the proper distance apart for stringing wires. To hold them in place nail a strip of wood across the top of the form beside the rod and drive a nail into this strip and bend the nail around the rod so as to hold it up against the strip. The rods should be well greased and left in the concrete about i day, when they can be removed. If they are not well greased it will be almost impossible to remove them without injuring the concrete. Through the holes the fence wire can be strung, or a short piece of wire can be run through and the ends twisted around the running fence wire. There are several other methods of providing the same means of attaching the fence wire to the posts. For instance, insert in place of the copper wire described above a galvanized screw eye and run the fence wire through it or attach it to the screw eye by means of wires. Corner posts should be made about xo inches square the full length of the posts and 9 feet long. On account of the weight of such a large post it is easier to mold the posts in place, as they will weigh about 940 pounds, but if desired they can be made in the same manner as the other fence posts just described. Reinforce corner posts with a 1/8-inch rod in each corner of the post instead of the No. 6 wire used for the smaller ones. Set a corner post at least 3% feet in the ground. If special finish is necessary, refer to method of treating horse blocks. Seven-foot fence posts constructed as described on page 36, without hiring outside help so that the cost of labor need not be considered, can be made for about 20 to 30 each. They will cost from $10 to $20 apiece more if the cost of labor is considered. Hitching posts can be built and reinforced in the same manner as finished fence posts. Make a post about 6 feet long so that it will set about 21/2 feet in the ground. Make forms and handle the concrete same as described above for fence posts. Cast a long 1/2-inch diameter iron staple, holding an iron ring, in the top of the post by passing it through a slot in the head of the form before the concrete is poured, just as the staple is placed in the clothes post described. A neat and inexpensive round hitching post may be designated as the "stove-pipe" hitching post. Dig a hole 18 inches deep and io inches in diameter in the ground and fill with one part Portland Cement, two parts of clean, coarse sand and four parts of screened gravel or broken stone. Place on this base of concrete, before it has set a section of 7-inch stove pipe. For reinforcement place a i-inch gas pipe in the center of the stove pipe and push it into the soft base of concrete. Insert in top of post a round hitching post ring. Leave the stove pipe in place and paint it if desired, which makes a very neat and attractive post. When the stove pipe rusts off, the concrete post still remains as attractive as ever. Clothes posts may be made in the same general way as the finished fence posts, except that they should be 6 inches square, g feet long, and reinforced with Y8-inch rods in each corner instead of No. 6 wire.