Concrete Cutting Cutter Lunenburg MA Mass Massachusetts

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Lunenburg Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling

Place a 21/2-inch layer of concrete in the form, and immediately feet placing and before the concrete has set, place a sheet of woven fence wire or some other wire fabric over the concrete, bending it up so that it will come to within one inch of the top of the forms at the sides and ends. Place 2 �� inches more of the concrete in the bottom and ram lightly to bring the mortar to the surface and smooth it off evenly. Have the inner form all ready and as soon as the base is laid and before it has begun to stiffen set it, taking care to keep it at equal distances from the sides, and then immediately fill in the concrete between the outer and inner forms to the required height. The time at which to remove the form depends upon several conditions, such as the wetness of the concrete, the weather and the temperature, but generally such forms can be removed within two days. After removing the forms, wet the concrete thoroughly and paint the inside surface with pure Portland cement mixed as thick as cream. Protect the concrete trough from the sun until it is filled with water keeping it wet for about a week. Do not fill with water until a week after laying the concrete. The outside surface can be finished off very satisfactory if done as soon as the forms are removed by wetting the surface thoroughly with a whitewash brush, using plenty of water, and rubbing it down with a wood float or board or a brick. This will remove the marks of the form boards and make a very pleasing appearance. (See directions for Finishing Concrete Surfaces, page 27.) A long concrete trough is difficult to build because of the great amount of reinforcement required to prevent shrinkage cracks. Where the concrete trough is to be connected with an inlet and outlet pipe, it is best to place the necessary pipes and connections in the forms before laying the concrete. This will save a great deal of labor and trouble, but where these connections cannot be made before placing the concrete, the holes for- them may be provided in the concrete by inserting greased wooden plugs in the forms in place of the pipes. These plugs can be easily withdrawn as soon as the concrete has set. The design of forms for a rectangular concrete trough, shown above, is economical in that the lumber for the outside forms does not need to be cut unless desired, and can therefore be used for any other purpose, being practically s good as new. Were it not for the more complicated form work, the circular shaped tank would be built oftener because of the attractive effects which can be produced. A simple and attractive circular form for a small watering concrete trough is shown. It is made as follows: Take an old wagon or buggy tire, lay it on the ground, and mark a line on the inside of the tire. Excavate inside of tire 6 inches deep and place endwise three i by 2-inch stakes about 3 feet long on the inside of the tire. Raise the tire 2 feet above the ground to make the total inside depth of the concrete trough 3 feet, and drive a nail in each of the three stakes under the tire to support it at this height. Fill in the circle between these three stakes with slats or flooring boards set on end and place a nail in each under the tire to hold, them at the top. To hold them at the bottom tamp a little sand at the foot of the stakes. Mix one part granulated Portland cement to one and one-half parts of clean, coarse sand to three parts of screened gravel or broken stone and lay about 4 inches of concrete. Place the reinforcement as described for rectangular concrete troughs, running it up on the sides so that it is about 2 inches from the outside surface. After placing the reinforcement the rest of the operations are the same as for a rectangular concrete trough. The inside form may -be made by sawing a barrel in two, nailing each of the barrel staves to the head of the barrel, and removing all but the top hoop. The construction of the inside barrel form is clearly shown.