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Marblehead Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling

The rises on all steps and stairs should not be less than 6 inches nor more than 8 inches, while the tread should be from 9 inches to 12 inches, except where it is intended that more than one step should be taken on the tread, in which case 30 inches should be the minimum width. Foundations for all steps out of doors should extend below frost line or have a porous base with a drain situated at the lowest point to allow the water to run off. Steps should be wider than the walk or opening from which they lead, to avoid looking cramped, and, in order to secure an artistic effect, should have some sort of projection, or molding, at the upper edge. A slight slope to allow the water to run off is also desirable.

Let us first consider steps to areas or terraced grounds. Excavate the earth on the slope to the desired depth (see Foundations for Sidewalks) and put in 70 porous foundations with a drain at the lower end to dispose of any water that may accumulate. Take two planks the length of the flight of steps on the slope, and wide enough to house each step, and mark upon them the location of the riser for each step. Place these -planks edgewise on each side on the slope, and brace well on the outside. Place the necessary reinforcement, as given in the table, the full length of the steps on the slope. Now set planks marked (b.) Fig. 21, across these housings to form the rise of each step on the lines previously marked, placing them so that there will be a space below them for a continuous slab of concrete. The thickness of the slab is given in the table under column marked "A." These planks should be arranged with a groove at the top, as shown, to form the projection or molding at the top of each step. They should be fastened to the housing planks with cleats in such a way that they can be removed without disturbing them. Inside of each of these riser forms place a loose piece of board, well greased, as described for facing curbing on page 79, so as to provide a space which can later be filled with mortar. Now pour into the forms thus made concrete in proportions one part Portland Cement, two parts clean, coarse sand, and four parts broken stone or screened gravel, filling each step to within x inch of the top of the riser. As soon as this concrete has stiffened, but before it has set, carefully draw out

the loose facing board and fill the spaces with mortar one part Portland Cement to one and one-half parts clean, coarse sand, and also cover over the top of the step to the depth of i inch with the same mortar, so that it will come flush with the top of the riser plank. Float the surface lightly with a wooden float, and as soon as it has stiffened hard enough to work, trowel it thoroughly. Early next day remove the riser form, the bottom of which, as shown in the figure, is beveled and comes only to the top of the mortar surface, and trowel the face of each riser. A skilled plasterer should be employed for this work, as the surface is likely to crack if not handled in a workmanlike manner.

Porch steps, and other short flights, can be built as follows: Build two 8-inch walls to a depth below frost, the upper surface conforming to the desired pitch of the steps, but inches below the points where the inner edges of the treads meet the risers. Carry the outside form, however, on the same slope to the line of the top of the risers. Between the walls build a sloping platform out of 1-inch boards supported by 2 x 4-inch stuff, well braced and conforming to the slope of the walls. Upon this sloping platform place '/4-inch steel bars 12 inches apart running from top to bottom. Also, crossways place one 3%-inch bar just at the foot of each rise, and fasten these to the '/4-inch bars by soft wire. Next mark for the location of the risers the side forms which project above the 8-inch walls, place cross plank on each to form these risers, and proceed in the same manner as has been described for area steps.