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Marlborough Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling

Concrete forms should not be removed from under the steps for 28 days. Should the steps be more than 6 feet wide, a wall similar to the two side walls may be built in the center. Sometimes it is easier to build a wall at the top and bottom of the steps instead of at the sides, and run the principal rods lengthwise of the flight, so that it is supported at top and bottom. In this case the supporting slab, whose thickness must be considered as the thinnest place in the steps, is designated in Fig. 21 by "A." The span, that is, the "distance apart of the beams," in the table is taken as the length of the horizontal projection of the stairs. The thickness of the slab and the diameter and spacing of the rods are given in the table. Select either size or spacing preferred. Steps cast separate from supporting walls should be made in advance and allowed to season. The sectional drawing illustrates this form of step. To build a single step, make form shown,14 inches x 7 inches inside measurement and i inch for projection, and fill as shown to within x inch of top with concrete, one part Portland Cement, three parts clean, coarse sand and six parts broken stone, tamped hard. As soon as this has stiffened, but before it has set, remove the board "a" next to the face of the concrete, which should not be fastened to the form, but simply set in and well greased. This will leave a space on the side and top of step, also a small mould for the projection at top of step. Fill this with wet mortar, one part Portland cement and one and one-half parts clean, coarse sand, and let set. The side forms may then be removed and used again. The two side walls for these steps may be 8 inches wide, spread at the base by allowing the concrete to flow out under the forms. The top is stepped off to conform to the bottom and back of steps (Fig. 23.) Place the steps on the walls thus made, after covering all joints with cement mortar, so that they overlap one another 2 inches. Reinforce all steps and stairs cast separately by iron bars placed about 1 inch above the bottom of the slab. Before one pours the concrete, a foundation of porous material, such as cinders or screened gravel, must be placed and as much care should be taken in laying this as the walk itself. Foundations should generally be 6 inches to 12 inches deep, depending upon the climate and character of the soil. In sections where there is a porous soil and a mild climate, foundations are sometimes omitted entirely. If the soil is clayey, blind drains of coarse gravel or tile pipe should be laid at the lowest points in the excavation, to carry off any water that might accumulate in the porous material of the foundation. Walks are frequently ruined by water freezing in the foundations and heaving them out of position. Excavate to the sub-grade previously determined upon, 3 inches wider on each side than the proposed walk, and fill with broken stone, gravel or cinders to within 4 inches of the proposed finished surface, wetting well and tamping in layers, so that when complete it will be even and firm, but porous. Place 2-inch x 4-inch scantlings (preferably dressed on inside and edge and perfectly straight) on top of the cinder foundation, the proper distance apart to form the inner and outer edges of the walk. The outside or curb strips must be i inch to 2 inches lower than the inner edge of the walk. This will give a slight incline to the finished surface and allow the water to run off. A good rule to follow is to allow Y8-inch slope to every foot of width of walk. For wide walks lay off the space between the scantlings into equal sections not larger than 6 feet square, put 2-inch X 4-inch scantlings crosswise and in the center, as shown in Fig. 24�this will make every alternate space, shown in figure by diagonal line, the size desired. Fill these spaces with concrete to a depth of 3 inches (this depth should be 4 inches where there is more than ordinary traffic, or where the blocks are 6 feet square)�one part Portland Cement, two parts clean, coarse sand, and four to five parts broken-stone or screened gravel�then tamp until water begins to show on top.