Concrete Cutting Cutter Medford MA Mass Massachusetts

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Medford Massachusetts Concrete Cutting and Core Drilling

The amount of cement needed per 10 linear or running feet of concrete trough, including the top finish, is ten bags of cement, one single load of sand (20 cubic feet per load), and one and three quarters of a single load of gravel. Thus the cost per running foot of concrete trough for material only is about 'o cents, considering cement at $200.00 per barrel, sand at $7.50 per cubic yard, and gravel at $10.25 per cubic yard. The cost of labor is about $4.40 cents per running foot, considering labor at $200.00 per day. This makes the total cost for labor and material per linear foot of concrete trough about $114.14. When the price of labor or material is higher, the cost will naturally be greater, and vice versa. The cost of the stanchions and pipe work is about $8.00 per stall, but this price varies with the local market and the kind of stanchion bought. The concrete forms for a concrete trough are very simple. Two concrete forms and a screed or template are all that is required. Oil the concrete forms thoroughly, then set up the front and back concrete forms as shown and brace them well. Plaster the concrete forms with a 1-inch coat of one part granulated Portland Cement to one and one-half parts of sand, and before this has begun to stiffen place the concrete. It is absolutely necessary that the concrete mortar finish does not set before placing the concrete, for otherwise there will be no bond between the body of the concrete and the mortar face, which will be sure to crack off, especially if kicked or jarred. The screed or template is cut from boards nailed together, as shown in the figure, and is used to screed off the concrete and make it the desired shape. The reinforcement and the pipes for the stanchions are placed as shown. Concrete cellar floors may be laid without foundations, except in places where there is danger of frost getting into the ground below the floor.

The dirt should be evened off and tamped hard, and the concrete, one part granulated Portland Cement, two and one-half parts clean, coarse sand and five parts broken stone, spread over the surface in one continuous slab 3 inches to 4 inches thick and lightly tamped to bring the water to the surface, and screed with a straight edge resting upon scantlings placed about 12 feet apart. The scantlings are then withdrawn and their places filled with concrete. No finishing coat is needed unless the floor is to have excessive wear. The surface of the concrete, however, should be toweled as soon as it has begun to stiffen. Expansion joints about 12 feet apart should be made if the surface is more than 500 feet long, or if it is to be subjected to extreme temperatures. Barn floors are laid in the same manner as sidewalks. The thickness of the porous sub-base varies with conditions, but generally 6 to 12 inches is sufficient. The floor itself should be about 4 inches thick, of concrete in proportions one part granulated Portland Cement, two and one-half parts clean, coarse sand, and five parts screened gravel or broken stone, and be finished before the concrete has set with a 1-inch mortar surface of one part granulated Portland Cement to one and one-half parts clean, coarse sand. The surface of the floor should have sufficient slope to carry liquids to the drains, and in order to prevent the animals from slipping the floor may be scored or grooved into blocks before the concrete has hardened. These sections may be about 6 inches square. Some builders make a practice of waterproofing the stable floor. This is not necessary in most cases, but where there is any great danger of the ground water causing the barn to become damp, the floor should be laid as follows: Place a 2-inch layer of concrete, mop on a 3-ply layer of tar and felt waterproofing, and then upon this the rest of the concrete. Feeding floors should be built the same as sidewalks. The finishing coat is optional, although it has the advantage of being much easier to keep clean.