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Millis: An Alluring Town In Massachusetts
Millis is one of the towns in Norfolk province in the Massachusetts state in the United States. This town covers an area of about 19 miles towards the southwest part of Boston city and is bounded by Medway, Medfiels, Holliston, Sherborn and Norfolk. Firstly, it was settled in the year 1657 and it was incorporated in an official manner in the year 1885.
The founder of this town is Lansing Millis and he incorporated this town successfully in the Commonwealth of the Massachusetts state. Lansing was greatly known as railroad entrepreneur, he develops a strong rail system in this town. A railroad system was the main thing in the early advancement of economic growth in the Millis and the assimilation of this town to the greater cities like Boston, Dedham and also Cambridge, Massachusetts.
Millis caters as the home for the nationally well-known “Millis Lights”. A Millis Lights is a show of Christmas lights and decorations on a 40-acre land.
The Charles river runs via this town and this town also has other smaller brooks and streams; most remarkably Bogastowe Brook. This town is also caters as a home to the Great Black Swamp. This swamp covers for about 100 acres, it is a major characteristic of this town. The Great Black Swamp geographically separates this town from its adjacent town called Medway.
When it comes to the matter of educational system in this town, it is catered by Millis High or Middle school and Clyde F. Brown Primary school. The public school system in Millis is the one of the smallest public school system in Massachusetts. Now, the primary schools cater the students in PR-K via grade 4.
The main roadways incorporate Rt.109 that connects the west and east of the state I-495 and Rt.128. A route 115 is main for the north and south direction via town. This town is situated nearby the intersection of Rt.115 and Rt.109. Rail transportation facility in Boston city is handy in the adjacent town of Norfolk and also the neighboring towns of Franklin, Walpole and Franklin.
The industrial history of this town is varied and long, starting with a small enterprise of water power called Hinsdell’s mill. Soon, this town emerged from a small town along with a mill to a fortunate industrial society. After several industries has established in Millis and stimulated growth and employment. A few of these industries incorporates the Herman shoe Company, organ pipe manufactory, organ manufactory and so on.
For convenience in handling the ensilage, it is well to leave openings or doors about 20 inches square at least every three feet on one side of the concrete silo. When desired, an opening 20 inches wide may be left the entire height of the concrete silo if a part of the horizontal reinforcement is run across the opening to strengthen it; this opening is to be closed by a series of wooden doors. A good design for a door or a series of doors is shown. A concrete chute running to the full height of the silo has sometimes been built around these doors or openings being constructed simultaneously with the walls. Make the walls of the chute 4 inches thick and reinforce them. A convenient size for such a concrete chute is about 4 feet along the face and 2-1/2 feet at the sides. One method of building a chute is illustrated. The concrete chute is made of 12-inch tiles and pipe, each length being 24 inches. Alternate lengths of plain pipe and tiles were used so as to bring the openings 4 feet apart. If it is desired to make the silo with a hollow wall, the construction can be made similar to the ice-box walls described. The inside section of the concrete wall of the silo is made the thickness required in the silo table, and the other concrete walls 3 inches thick with lighter reinforcement. Formerly it was thought necessary to make all silos of hollow wall construction, but this is now practically superseded by the solid: wall built with dense wet mixed concrete. Concrete tanks, if properly built, are superior in all respects to any other kind of a tank for storing water or grain. They are easy to clean, and do not rot or rust. The concrete mixture should be in proportions one part granulated Portland cement to one and one-half parts clean but rather fine sand to three parts screened gravel or broken stone. A concrete tank in order to withstand water pressure and not leak is, best built by laying the concrete without stopping. Even then there are other essential things which, if disregarded, will produce a leaky tank. The concrete must be mixed so wet that it will flow over and around the metal reinforcement and against the concrete forms. The materials for the concrete must be very carefully proportioned and the stones small enough to pass a Y4-inch mesh screen. A concrete made by using very clean screened gravel makes a denser concrete than broken stone; it flows into place better and is not so apt to have voids and stone pockets which let through the water. Square tanks do not stand water pressure so well as round because the sides tend to bulge, but they are all right if not more than 4 feet deep and 8 feet square. Build outside concrete forms 12 inches wider, 12 inches longer and 6 inches deeper than the inside of the finished tank. Set mesh reinforcement or else 1/4-inch rods running both ways and 6 inches apart, in bottom of tank and the reinforcement given for a 5-foot round tank in the sides. Allow the vertical rods to project down into the bottom and the bottom rods to project up into the sides. Tie horizontal rods to vertical by 1/16-inch soft wire. Place the inner concrete form 4 inches from the outside form. This form can rest on iron pins driven into the ground. Grease the concrete forms thoroughly. Place the concrete into concrete forms at one continuous operation so that there will be no joints between courses, making it of the consistency of heavy cream. As the concrete is placed in the bottom, lift the reinforcement a little to allow the concrete to get in under it. When filling the wall take care to keep the reinforcement in place. By working carefully, the inside form may be removed as soon as the concrete has become dry on top, say, in two or three hours, although a better way is to leave it for two or three days and knock the form to pieces. Leave outside form in place for three or four days. After the concrete has set and the concrete forms are removed, paint inside of the tank with pure cement mixed with water to the consistency of cream and brush in well.
Cutting and/or enlarging door, window and bulkhead openings in concrete foundations.
Cutting 1" to 24" diameter perfectly round core holes for electrical, plumbing or vents in concrete floors and foundations.
Cutting and dicing concrete floors, concrete walkways, concrete patios or concrete pool decks for easy removal and/or neat patching.
Cutting trenches in concrete floors for plumbing, electrical, sump pumps, French drains or other utilities.
We cut and remove concrete, stone or masonry walls, floors, walkways, patios and stairs.