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Wakefield Massachusetts- A trip to historical city
Wakefield is one of the scenic towns in Middlesex country, Massachusetts of greater Boston metropolitian area. The town was incorporated in the year 1812 and is situated at a distance of 12.5 miles (20.1 km) to the north of Downtown Boston. In fact, the town is the 73rd most populous town in Massachusetts. The total population of the town was 24,932 according to 2010 census.
Wakefield is conveniently situated at the midst of two major highways, i.e. I-93 and i-95/128). It is easily accessible by MBTA commuter rail from Boston. The town has preserved its historic New England appearance and it is well known for its strong community involvement , public library , top notch quality education system and much more . There are plenty of activities are held in Wakefield.
The land of Wakefield was first established in the year 1638, by a small group of settlers from Lynn. In the year 1644, 7 families settled in the town and seven homes have been constructed. Later, court ordered that a town can be incorporated. The 7 families located there was completely a community of farmers. They took advantage of wild turkeys, sweet in abundant quantity, fishes in ponds and rivers, wild pigeons, grapes blackberries, and blueberries in huge quantities.
The town is served with two news papers on daily basis. They are Daily Item and Daily Tines Chronicle. Another weekly newspaper namely “Wakefield Observer”. On the other hand, memorial highs school of the town has its own newspaper and they are written by the students of the school and it is named as “WHS express”. Wakefield also owns a television services/station called WCAT Wakefield.
Additionally, Wakefield Nation provides election coverage as well as supports for local charitable trusts. The first newspaper of the town was established in the year 1858.
The town features strong local sports as well as sports culture. In this relate, Wakefield high school organizes softball, basketball, baseball and football programs. Baseball is the most popular sport of the town particularly in summer and spring. The town has many active youth sports leagues.
In concrete walls and concrete floors, or where a tensile stress is apt to be applied, the joint should be thoroughly washed and soaked, and then painted with neat cement or a mixture of one part cement and one part sand, made into a very thin mortar. In the construction of tanks or any other work that is to be water-tight, in which the concrete is not placed in one continuous operation, one or more square or V-shaped joints are necessary. These joints are formed by a piece of timber, say 4 inches by 6 inches, being imbedded in the surface of the last concrete laid each day. On the following morning, when the timber is removed, the joint is washed and coated with neat cement or 1:1 mortar. The joints may be either horizontal or vertical. The bond between old and new concrete may be aided by roughening the surface after ramming or before placing the new concrete.
Many experiments have been made to determine the effect of freezing of concrete before it has a chance to set. From these and from practical experience, it is now generally accepted that the ultimate effect of freezing of Portland cement concrete is to produce only a surface injury. The setting and hardening of Portland cement concrete is retarded, and the strength at short periods is lowered, by freezing; but the ultimate strength appears to be only slightly, if at all, affected. A thin scale about inch in depth is apt to scale off from granolithic or concrete pavements which have been frozen, leaving a rough instead of a toweled wearing surface; and the effect upon concrete walls is often similar; but there appears to be no other injury. Concrete should not be laid in freezing weather, if it can be avoided, as this involves additional expense and requires greater precautions to be taken; but with proper care, Portland cement concrete can be laid at almost any temperature. There are three methods which may be used to prevent injury to concrete when laid in freezing weather: First: Heat the sand and stone, or use hot water in mixing the concrete. Second. Add salt, calcium chloride, or other chemicals to lower the freezing point of the water. Third: Protect the green concrete by enclosing it and keeping the temperature of the enclosure above the freezing point. The first method is perhaps more generally used than either of the others. In heating the aggregate, the frost is driven from it; hot water alone is insufficient to get the frost out of the frozen lumps of sand. If the heated aggregate is mixed with water which is hot but not boiling, experience has shown that a comparatively high temperature can be maintained for several hours, which will usually carry it through the initial set safely. The heating of the materials also hastens the setting of the cement. If the fresh concrete is covered with canvas or other material, it will assist in maintaining a higher temperature. The canvas, however, must not be laid directly on the concrete, but an air space of several inches must be left between the concrete and the canvas. The aggregate is heated by means of steam pipes laid in the bottom of the bins, or by having pipes of strong sheet iron, about IS inches in diameter, laid through the bottom of the bins, and fires built in the pipes. The water may be heated by steam jets or other means. It is also well to keep the mixer warm in severe weather, by the use of a steam coil on the outside, and jets of steam on the inside. The second method, lowering the freezing point by adding salt, has been commonly used to lower the freezing point of water. Salt will increase the time of setting and lower the strength of the concrete for short periods. There is a wide difference of opinion as to the amount of salt that may be used without lowering the ultimate strength of the concrete. Specifications for the New York Subway work required nine pounds of salt to each 100 pounds (12 gallons) of water in freezing weather. A common rule calls for 10 percent of salt to the weight of water, which is equivalent to about 13 pounds of salt to a barrel of cement.
Cutting and/or enlarging door, window and bulkhead openings in concrete foundations.
Cutting 1" to 24" diameter perfectly round core holes for electrical, plumbing or vents in concrete floors and foundations.
Cutting and dicing concrete floors, concrete walkways, concrete patios or concrete pool decks for easy removal and/or neat patching.
Cutting trenches in concrete floors for plumbing, electrical, sump pumps, French drains or other utilities.
We cut and remove concrete, stone or masonry walls, floors, walkways, patios and stairs.